🔗 Share this article The City of Bristol's Backyard Wine Gardens: Grape-Treading Grapes in City Spaces Each quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered railway carriage pulls into a graffiti-covered station. Nearby, a police siren pierces the near-constant road noise. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds form. It is maybe the least likely spot you anticipate to find a well-established vineyard. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a row of 1930s houses and a local rail line just north of the city downtown. "I've noticed people hiding heroin or other items in the shrubbery," says Bayliss-Smith. "But you just get on with it ... and continue caring for your vines." The cameraman, forty-six, a documentary cameraman who also has a fermented beverage company, is not the only urban winemaker. He's pulled together a loose collective of cultivators who produce wine from several hidden urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout the city. The project is too clandestine to possess an formal title yet, but the group's messaging chat is named Grape Expectations. Urban Vineyards Around the World So far, the grower's plot is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's forthcoming global directory, which includes more famous urban wineries such as the eighteen hundred vines on the hillsides of Paris's renowned artistic district area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the vanguard of a initiative reviving urban grape cultivation in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them all over the globe, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Central Asia. "Vineyards help cities remain greener and ecologically varied. They protect land from development by establishing permanent, yielding farming plots within cities," says the organization's leader. Like all wines, those produced in urban areas are a result of the soils the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who care for the fruit. "Each vintage represents the charm, local spirit, landscape and history of a city," adds the president. Mystery Eastern European Grapes Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a race against time to gather the grapevines he cultivated from a cutting abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. Should the precipitation arrives, then the birds may take advantage to feast again. "Here we have the mystery Polish variety," he says, as he cleans bruised and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain their exact classification, but they're definitely disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and additional renowned European varieties – you need not spray them with pesticides ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Eastern Bloc." Group Efforts Throughout Bristol The other members of the collective are also taking advantage of bright periods between bursts of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's glistening harbour, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, Katy Grant is harvesting her dark berries from approximately 50 plants. "I love the smell of the grapevines. It is so evocative," she remarks, pausing with a container of fruit resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of southern France when you open the vehicle windows on vacation." Grant, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for charitable groups in conflict zones, inadvertently took over the vineyard when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in recent years. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This plot has previously survived three different owners," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of passing this on to someone else so they can keep cultivating from the soil." Sloping Gardens and Traditional Winemaking A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of the local river valley. One filmmaker has established more than one hundred fifty vines perched on terraces in her expansive property, which descends towards the muddy River Avon. "People are always surprised," she says, indicating the tangled grape garden. "It's astonishing to them they can see grapevine lines in a city street." Today, Scofield, sixty, is harvesting bunches of deep violet dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to Netflix's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbour's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can make intriguing, pleasurable traditional vintage, which can command prices of more than seven pounds a serving in the growing number of establishments specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can truly make quality, traditional vintage," she says. "It is quite on trend, but in reality it's resurrecting an old way of producing vintage." "During foot-stomping the fruit, all the natural microorganisms are released from the surfaces and enter the liquid," says Scofield, partially submerged in a bucket of small branches, pips and red liquid. "That's how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown culture." Challenging Environments and Creative Approaches A few doors down active senior Bob Reeve, who inspired Scofield to plant her vines, has gathered his friends to harvest Chardonnay grapes from one hundred plants he has arranged precisely across multiple levels. Reeve, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at Bristol University cultivated an interest in wine on annual sporting trips to France. However it is a challenge to cultivate this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with cooling tides sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce Burgundian wines here, which is a bit bonkers," says Reeve with a smile. "Chardonnay is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections." "I wanted to make Burgundian wines in this environment, which is a bit bonkers" The temperamental local weather is not the sole problem encountered by grape cultivators. Reeve has had to erect a barrier on